Although nowhere is too far, Nelson Tasman can feel like a big place - we have more than our fair share of hidden valleys, sneaky bays and long winding roads flanked by seemingly impenetrable bush.
Luckily for us, intrepid restaurant, café and eatery owners have come before us, magically appearing from what can feel like the middle of nowhere with epicurean eats and treats.
Location: Onekaka, Golden Bay
An institution for travellers and locals, the The Mussel Inn is a watering hole for anyone in the Bay looking for good food, great beer, in and outdoor dining and drinking, plus a packed long summer music programme of local and touring bands.
The food is unashamedly rustic – hearty plates of salad from the garden out back, steaks, pan-fried fish, goat ragu, an epic mussel chowder, and, of course, the must-have bowl of Sossys.
Location: Wainui Bay, Takaka
Perched on the hillside between Wainui Bay and Totaranui Beach at the Northern tip of Abel Tasman National Park, Toto’s delivers great coffee, beers, wines and perfect wood-fired pizzas. Great views with tables in the garden, this place is a godsend for hungry travelers in the deep south of Golden Bay.
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Location: Pakawau, Golden Bay
Not surprisingly housed in the old school rooms at Pakawau, and not necessarily off the beaten track as a long way down the road, the Old School Café has reliably served up a stacked menu for locals and travelers for many, many years.
There’s plenty of tables, a pool table and alfresco garden out the back for the good weather days. Menu favourites include the Steamed Mussels, the Asian Pork Belly with Mash and Baby Back Ribs.
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Location: Murchison, Tasman
Rivers Café may be right in the middle of Murchison township - but it’s around the corner, off the mainline - so it’s worth a mention.
Converted long ago from a retro petrol station, Rivers Café has plenty of outdoor seating, cabinets stacked with home made food (muffins, pies, quiches, slices) and they do brekky, light meals and burgers to boot. The coffee is great, the vibe is boho casual, and it’s at the start of a very long drive south for many, so an essential stop.
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Location: Whareriki Beach, Golden Bay
At the end of a long road from Collingwood up to Farewell Spit itself and across to Whareriki Beach is Archway Café.
This is a tiny converted truck smack bang in the middle of a roughly hewn copse of trees – as quirky and out there as you could hope for.
That there is coffee at all this far out is miraculous, and they have other small bites available. This is a coffee truck, not so much as full café, but we’re grateful – and note the seasonal opening hours.
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Location: St Arnaud, Tasman
Built lovingly by Europeans who understand the alpine environment, the Alpine Lodge at St Arnaud in the Nelson Lakes National Park is a beacon of hospitality all year round.
With beautiful wood interiors and tall vaulted ceilings, their bar and restaurant area impress immediately. The menu is equally well considered (breakfast, lunch and dinner - from Bruschetta's, Noodle Salads and their famous Charcuterie Platter to Porterhouse Steaks, slow-cooked Lamb Shanks or the Venison Burger.
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Location: Bainham, Golden Bay
You can’t get any more ‘end of the road’ than this. Bainham is the last stop before the Heaphy Track - four days on foot to the West Coast.
Luckily, The Langford Store stand both as a testament to our far-flung rural past and the commitment and sheer style of Surkita Langford (great grand-daughter of the Store’s original owner) and her husband Will.
Besides coffees, teas, scones, slices (and ice creams), the store is chock full of an eclectic mix of recycled vintage and retro treasures, walls of local art for sale, and Surkita’s famous bucket hats and aprons.
A few minutes to the Salisbury Falls, this is a destination worth seeking out.
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